Bastion of the Bygone Era – Reis Magos Fort

As you drive through the fishing villages of Betim and Verem off the city of Panaji, the winding and narrow streets suddenly bring you to the Mandovi river front. Gradually the view of the whitewashed Reis Magos church comes into view with the laterite stone walls of the fort just adjacent to the church. Reis Magos Fort in Reis Magos village, North Goa is one of the most beautifully restored monuments in the recent times. An abandoned sub-jail till 1993, it was finally taken notice by the Goa Government and was taken over for renovation in 2007. It was later opened for public in 2012 as a cultural and heritage monument. It is now listed under Goa Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains.

Goa was a Portuguese colony for around 450 years and was liberated on December 19^th, 1961. The fort was built as the first line of defence by the Portuguese in the year 1540. It was constructed at a strategic point to prevent the Dutch from entering the waters of the Mandovi and thence to Old Goa or Ela, once the capital city of Goa. Several changes were made to the original structure in 1595 and again in 1707 to strengthen it further. Two more forts were built later in Aguada and Cabo in order to fortify their hold in Goa during the Maratha invasions. Eventually the Portuguese shifted their capital from Old Goa to Panaji and the fort was only used sometimes as a jail or to lodge soldiers in times of need. During the Goa liberation, some of the freedom fighters were jailed in the fort and later the fort continued to be as a sub-jail till 1993. Eventually in 2007 Goa Government decided to restore it and it was opened to public as a cultural and heritage monument.

The fort stands tall today, keeping within it the stories of the people it had protected, the times it had witnessed and the wars it had fought. Reis Magos fort also houses the Mario Miranda Gallery, a Restoration hall and a Freedom Movement Museum. The most impressive aspect of my visit to the fort a few years back and again last month, was the well-kept and managed premises. You don’t see a sign of litter anywhere and this adds to the charming experience. It is now frequently visited by tourists, art enthusiasts, students and others who come here to enjoy the serenity and beauty of the place.

The best time to visit the fort is in the morning before it is too sunny. The registration counter at the entrance provides water and beverages but once inside the fort, there is no restaurant. Make sure you wear light cottons to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the cool breeze of the Arabian Sea. The fort is open from 9:30 – 5:00 every day except on Mondays.

The fort, made of laterite, overlooks the Mandovi river and it offers a fantastic view of the river and the sea. Many of the ancient trees are saved during the restoration and they add an aura to the fort structure. Reis Magos Church, said to be the oldest church in Goa, stands next to the fort with its white-washed façade. The fort and the church make the small village of Reis Magos, a must-visit place in Goa.