Preserving the Traditional Art of Making Clay Idols

Mandrem, to a lot of tourists and unfortunately to the younger generation of Goans, is synonymous with sun, sand, beaches and shacks. Located in the Pernem taluka, between the two popular tourist places of Morjim and Arambol, Mandrem is an idyllic coastal village, when ‘Googled’, will only throw up names of shacks and restaurants that the tourists flock to Goa for. But on a Sunday morning, I have a different purpose to visit this beautiful village…to meet a man whose family has been making idols of Lord Ganesha for the last 60 years.

ganesh1

Every year, in the month of May, Praveen Murari Mhamal and his family switch gears to a different routine. During the months leading to Ganesh Chaturthi, Sanjay, along with his family and with the help of a few local workers, chalks out his plan for the season. The routine demands 15 hours of labour every day which includes procuring the right amount and quality of clay, deciding the theme and style of each individual idol, making individual body parts using moulds, carving out the required shapes and surface texture, giving the idols ample time to dry before finally  applying the first coat of paint.

ganesh4
Faith and devotion has many forms (Pic Courtesy: Rudresh Mhamal)

Started by Praveen’s father, Murari Ganesh Mhamal in early 1950s, ‘Susheela Arts’ has been catering to the demand of idols during the season since then. Every year idol-makers across the state start their work by the beginning of June with the advent of the first rains. The work comes with a time limit as the festival is celebrated in the months of August/September depending on the Hindu calendar. The states of Goa and Maharashtra celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi festival with pomp and in Goa alone, around 500 artisans across the state make and sell the idols. Praveen laments that procuring clay has become difficult now. Sometimes idols are also made with lagddo (clay) mixed with papier mache and a binding glue. In the earlier times clay used to be taken from agricultural land and farmers in the villages would request the artisans to take clay from their land. It was a sustainable practice, encouraging rotation and tilling of the earth, making it richer and more fertile. Today, it has become difficult to get clay because of growing commercial activities in the area or building of residential complexes and whatever is left is polluted with construction debris. Clay from Mandrem is by far the best in Goa and is in great demand as it has the right consistency and texture to make idols. Black clay, which is available easily in other parts (Warkhand v illage in Pedne Taluka) is too fine to use and leaves fine lines and cracks when it starts drying. But the red clay which is used in Mandrem has natural mixture of fine gravel, which is perfect to work as it dries faster and thus can be painted sooner too. Earlier, natural colours were used which were prepared at home using colours with resin used from local trees especially cashew. Now-a-days, distemper is used to paint the idols as natural colours are difficult to procure.

In the recent times, in spite of the ban on the use of Plaster of Paris (PoP), many idol makers are still using the same. PoP idols are lighter than the clay variety as they are cheaper and easier to make. Says Praveen, “PoP idols can be made with one single mould. They dry faster and hence can be painted also faster. But the clay idols are made using different moulds for different parts. Each of these have to be made separately and then put together as one single idol, which is time consuming.” Despite the laborious work, there are still artisans like Praveen who believe in promoting and preserving this skill.

ganesh2

ganesh5

Every year, Praveen makes around 250 idols and takes almost 2 ½ to 3 months to complete the work. Each idol is given exclusive attention and detailing is done with absolute care. After each part is carefully given shape with the mould, the artist uses two brushes – hard and soft – to give the surface texture and smoothness. Traditionally the bristles of the hard brush were made using the thick hairs from the neck of a wild boar and the wooden handle from soft wood of a pine tree. Praveen uses the same methods that he learnt from his father and makes the brushes with his own hands. Though a time-consuming affair, Praveen’s passion and dedication towards his work prompts him to continue with the conventional methods. There are very few artisans who use traditional methods to make idols in Goa because of lack of any financial benefit and long hours of labour.

It is a custom in Goa to procure idols from the same artisan who the family has been buying from for many generations. Hence whatever the price or dakshina (offering or gift) that the family has been giving the artisan for generations, has not increased over the years. Many continue to offer the same paltry amount and artisans don’t get any financial gain. Many times, a ‘dakshina’ of betel leaves, betel nuts and coconut is offered to the artisan in exchange for the idol, as is the family tradition. Hence some idol makers are either moving to other towns during the season so they can sell the idols for a higher price, or are closing their business.

ganesh6
Praveen at work (Pic courtesy: My friend Rudresh Mhamal

“For me each idol is unique and special. I don’t neglect or overlook any detail. I try to create a perfect idol of Lord Ganesha to depict the Lord himself sitting in front of me because, for the family who buys from us, it is the idol they are going to worship,” says Praveen with a smile.

The subsidy that is announced by the Goa government, is not sufficient at all and doesn’t cover the expenses. Also the subsidy comes very late every year and the artisans don’t get any advantage from it. This state of affairs is encouraging import of idols from other states which are commercially done using environmentally hazardous materials. But unfortunately, neither the government nor the general public worry about water pollution when the idols are immersed. It is a sad sight a few days later, idols washed ashore totally intact and in a state of neglect.

Along with Ganesha idols, Praveen also makes idols for temple festivals.  Praveen and his brother Sanjay Mhamal make thematic backdrops for stage performances during festivals like Mahashivratri, Diwali and Durga Puja and other occasions on order. He takes us for a tour around his workshop and shows us the painted backdrops that he has made for a school event in Mandrem recently. “Such work has come down drastically and we don’t earn much with this occupation anymore. So we cater to other stage requirements like complete sound system, stage decoration, furniture etc for events.” Praveen Mhamal supplies costumes for the historical and religious plays staged in schools, temples and other events.

Praveen is happy that he is able to preserve his family occupation as well as the traditional art that he has inherited from his father. His children who are still too young to decide their career, help him with kneading the clay or painting the idols during the busier months.

Traditional occupations the world over are slowly getting obliterated, some because of the changing lifestyle but many because of lack of resources and sufficient support and aid from society and government. While lifestyle changes are normal and natural to a certain extent, those which encourage sustainable growth development should be preserved for the posterity.

Makar Sankraanti

Of all the festivals we celebrate every year, my most favourite one and the one I look forward to is Makar Sankranti. It is the time when the harvest and the prosperity that it brings to a farmer’s home is celebrated with pomp and revelry. India being predominantly an agrarian society, harvest festivals are believed to bring wealth and well-being to a farmer’s home.

In the southern state of Andhra Pradesh, Sankranti or Pongal as it is popularly called, is celebrated typically on 13th, 14th and 15th January every year. The festival excitement starts a week ahead with schools closing for term break. When we were children, our vacation plans always involved a visit to Godavarru, my maternal grandparents’ village. My grandfather was an agriculturist which meant the visit was a double treat for us as we would witness the farming activities up close. Sacks of paddy reached home in bullock carts and were stored in a huge warehouse which was in the front yard of the house. Paddy was also weighed and distributed among the farmhands, which was generally the practice in villages. They were always paid in kind for these seasonal activities.

The first sign of the Sankranti season was the advent of a Hari Daasu, believed to be an incarnation of sage Narada, a dedicated disciple of Lord Vishnu in Hindu mythology. A balladeer, he would go from village to village singing songs in praise of God and his greatness. Dressed in a typical traditional attire of a saffron coloured dhoti, a garland around his neck, hair tied in a knot, he would go from house to house carrying a brass pot on his head collecting his share of rice from householders. His voice would be heard a couple of lanes away singing and playing the tambura, (a musical instrument used for pitch) and all of us would eagerly wait at the door for him with excitement. A hari daasu is almost never seen or heard today as their successive generations are opting for more lucrative professions because of changing times.

Hari Daasu

Another quintessential practice during Pongal is drawing rangolis (creative patterns using rice flour) in front of every house and sometimes adorning them with gobbemmalu (cow-dung balls decorated with marigold flowers). It is believed that rangoli in front of a home wards off evil eye and keeps the householders happy and prosperous. It is a common sight in smaller towns of Andhra Pradesh even today to see girls in front of their home, drawing beautiful designs either leaving them plain white or filling them with colours. In earlier times people procured cow-dung from a local cattle shed every day during the festival to make gobbemmalu. These were replaced by new ones every morning while old ones were flattened against the wall of the cowshed to dry, eventually to be used as cooking fuel. Many of these practices are now obsolete with the changing times.

Rangoli

The most awaited Sankranti activity for me even today is the bommala koluvu, a display of dolls in an artistic manner on makeshift steps. While many South Indians have the koluvu (or Golu in Tamil Nadu) during the Navratri festival, in Andhra it is a usual practice to have it during Pongal. The koluvu traditionally has dolls arranged on each step with a theme from mythology. My mother would start preparations a month before the festival, getting us children to find useful material and tables to put up the steps. This display would sometimes also have additionally a miniature village, with fields grown by sowing grains on sheets of paper two weeks before the festival. We had a whole box of huts, miniature farm animals and people that we used to make the village with. It is also a tradition to buy a new idol or a doll every year to be kept in the centre of the display. Though there are several versions to explain the significance of bommala koluvu, the most important reason for me is the fun and festivities shared with friends and family during these days. On the day of Sankranti, women and children are invited home and they were served snacks and given a small gift. As children we would go around to visit displays in other friends’ houses and at the end of the day would boast in front of everyone that our bommala koluvu was the best.

IMG-20190109-WA0001
Bommala Koluvu with the miniature village

With two daughters at home, I keep the tradition alive and still celebrate Pongal with the same fervour. Though my koluvu is not as big as what my mother or my grandmother used to have, I still experience the same childish enthusiasm putting up display with the help of my girls.  A few dolls from my mother and grandmother also made their way to my collection and I always arrange these on the first step of my koluvu. I keep each doll and each memory back in the box after the festival and stash them away safely, yearning to open them all again for yet another lively experience.

Tradition for me is keeping these memories alive and maybe if I could, pass them on to my daughters.

Feliz Navidad

Peace, Love, Joy

Its Christmas time again! It’s that time of the year when you are so happy you have such great friends and family, that time of the year when you are thankful for your health and feel blessed with what you have, a season with perfect weather and a nip in the air, good food, and  a song on your lips.

But the season also makes you aware that not everyone is in the same place as you are. Let’s spread the joy and the spirit of Christmas to those who are unable to enjoy the season. Help a friend overcome her grief of  losing a loved one, support orphans who don’t have home of their own,  share the pain of someone who is ill, serve the poor and the less fortunate, extend a hand to those who need financial assistance, invite someone home who is far away from family and forgive and forget past grudges. Christmas is the time to spread the joy of living and loving, of caring and sharing.

Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year!!