St. Cajetan Church – Abode of Peace and Serenity

If you take a turn into the lanes behind the Se Cathedral, Old Goa, you come to one of the most unique churches of Goa, the St. Cajetan Church and convent. Housed on a spacious land, surrounded by huge, old trees, and landscaped gardens, the church stands royally, as if looking heavenwards. Also called Velha Goa, Old Goa was the earlier capital of Goa during the Portuguese rule before it was shifted to Panjim (‘Velha’ in Portuguese means ‘old’). Though constructed by the Bijapur Sultanate which ruled Goa before the arrival of the Portuguese, it later became the seat of Roman Catholic Church of the East during the time of Portuguese rule.  Hence it houses many churches and chapels, the most famous of them being Se Cathedral and Basilica of Bom Jesus.

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Saint Cajetan was an Italian priest, a religious reformer and the co-founder of the Theatines Order of the Christian Faith. Recognized as a saint by the Catholic Church, his feast day is celebrated on 7th August every year. It is believed that during the Portuguese regime in Goa, three Italian priests, on the command of the Pope, arrived to spread Christianity in 1639 and planned to build a hospital. Their work was interrupted by the Portuguese Viceroy Felipe Mascarenhas, but the priests eventually sought permission from the then king of Portugal, Dom Joāo IV. After building the hospital in 1955 they set up a church and a convent close to it. The church hence is supposed to have been modelled on St. Peter’s Basilica of Vatican City by the Italian architects Carlo Ferrarini and Francesco Maria Milazzo. Although the church is originally dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence, it was later named after St. Cajetan, who was a contemporary of St. Francis Xavier. The main altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence and the largest altar on the right side is of St. Cajetan.

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On the same grounds, as you enter the gate, on your left side, are the remains of the palace of Yusuf Adil Shah, with the main arch still standing erect. The palace was constructed just before the Portuguese took over Goa from the Muslim ruler who was ruling Goa and Bijapur in the present day Karnataka. It was supposed to have been destroyed around 1820 and the only surviving remnants are the arch and structural traces of the laterite walls around.

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Today, perhaps St. Cajetan Church is the only domed church in Goa. With minimum number of tourists visiting it, the premises of the church exudes a peaceful environment and tourists as well as pilgrims enjoy a quiet moment of prayer and meditation in front of the altar.

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Bastion of the Bygone Era – Reis Magos Fort

As you drive through the fishing villages of Betim and Verem off the city of Panaji, the winding and narrow streets suddenly bring you to the Mandovi river front. Gradually the view of the whitewashed Reis Magos church comes into view with the laterite stone walls of the fort just adjacent to the church. Reis Magos Fort in Reis Magos village, North Goa is one of the most beautifully restored monuments in the recent times. An abandoned sub-jail till 1993, it was finally taken notice by the Goa Government and was taken over for renovation in 2007. It was later opened for public in 2012 as a cultural and heritage monument. It is now listed under Goa Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains.

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Goa was a Portuguese colony for around 450 years and was liberated on December 19th, 1961. The fort was built as the first line of defence by the Portuguese in the year 1540. It was constructed at a strategic point to prevent the Dutch from entering the waters of the Mandovi and thence to Old Goa or Ela, once the capital city of Goa. Several changes were made to the original structure in 1595 and again in 1707 to strengthen it further. Two more forts were built later in Aguada and Cabo in order to fortify their hold in Goa during the Maratha invasions. Eventually the Portuguese shifted their capital from Old Goa to Panaji and the fort was only used sometimes as a jail or to lodge soldiers in times of need. During the Goa liberation, some of the freedom fighters were jailed in the fort and later the fort continued to be as a sub-jail till 1993. Eventually in 2007 Goa Government decided to restore it and it was opened to public as a cultural and heritage monument.

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The fort stands tall today, keeping within it the stories of the people it had protected, the times it had witnessed and the wars it had fought. Reis Magos fort also houses the Mario Miranda Gallery, a Restoration hall and a Freedom Movement Museum. The most impressive aspect of my visit to the fort a few years back and again last month, was the well-kept and managed premises. You don’t see a sign of litter anywhere and this adds to the charming experience. It is now frequently visited by tourists, art enthusiasts, students and others who come here to enjoy the serenity and beauty of the place.

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The best time to visit the fort is in the morning before it is too sunny. The registration counter at the entrance provides water and beverages but once inside the fort, there is no restaurant. Make sure you wear light cottons to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the cool breeze of the Arabian Sea. The fort is open from 9:30 – 5:00 every day except on Mondays.reis 4

The fort, made of laterite, overlooks the Mandovi river and it offers a fantastic view of the river and the sea. Many of the ancient trees are saved during the restoration and they add an aura to the fort structure. Reis Magos Church, said to be the oldest church in Goa, stands next to the fort with its white-washed façade. The fort and the church make the small village of Reis Magos, a must-visit place in Goa.